Transmission clanking sound help

[Stumblinman]

I've got a CJ5 with new 360 and TF727/IH D20 behind it. It's making a hollow kind of clanking tinney sound and gets louder under load (hill) and loses just about all power before it stalls. First impression was the torque converter wasn't working. I'm not too sure about it now because I've heard it when it was in Park and supposedly the converter shouldn't be turning then??? It shifts OK during normal driving. Only other symptoms are the tranny cooler is only hot at the brass hose connection and cold everywhere else and with the shifter in 2nd it seems to shift between 1st and 2nd.

Any ideas ?

[drvnmsbessie]

sounds like the tranny pump is not engaged correctly. If the engine is running the converter IS turning. When you put the engine in or pulled the old one did the converter ever come out of the tranny? You mat not have the converter engaged all the way in. Also check you converter bolts to see if they are loose.

[CoolJeep]

in an automatic if you are in second it shifts between 1st and 2nd

[akeddie]

sounds like your cooler plugged up too.

[Stumblinman]

OK I got it about the 2nd gear selection. For some reason I was thinking the 727 locked into 2nd. I guess I never notice off road.

It made the noise with the last engine. Same converter and flex plate and yes they did have to come apart. I didn't inspect the pump though. I'm thinking maybe pull the hose for the cooler and see if it's pumping good then if so, pull the cooler and make sure it's clear...

[drvnmsbessie]

Also mike check that you dont have something binding something since you say the noise is only under stress.

[akhappyjack]

use a pressure gauge, did you get the convertor all the way in? will it do it if you power brake it. is the convertor bad ? sprag on the stator ( in side convertor) if the convertor goes in right you'll feel three clunks 1) imput shaft 2) stator support 3) pump gears, on a t/f the pump gears are rotory with tabs on the inside of the drive gear

[Storm]

The final result was that the bendix was separated from the fork allowing the bendix to rattle back and forth touching the flexplate at times. Once re-attached, all is well.

[Stumblinman]

The final result was that the bendix was separated from the fork allowing the bendix to rattle back and forth touching the flexplate at times. Once re-attached, all is well.


SSSsshhhh... No it was totally unexplainable and alien forces where detaching and reattaching gear teeth at random until a AMRD (Advanced Martian Repellant Device) was installed creating a cortex confusional state surrounding the vehicle....

:sign:

[Billywonka]

Alian Zombies!!!:zombie:

[zoomy]

Just because I may know a thing or seven thousand eight hundred and fifteen about this combination, I will say this. I have changed a lot of flexplates on Jeeps before. The 360's like to eat them. But it also sound like ping to me, It can echo throughout the drivetrain, change the timing, see if it makes a difference. And for knowledge a chrysler trans is always turning the pump, the pressure relief valve is held open until the trans is taken out of park,

[Stumblinman]

When he's talking about the bendix it is.. well, the starter gear is 'attached' to a ring and a spring and a thing the fork hooks to and an end piece that kinda pushes it all together with a C-clip at the end. HA now I know it's hard to picture if you've never taken one apart but we had two that had the same problem.
The end piece wears and then the C-clip will fall through it so the gear isn't held back with the spring. The gear then can engage whenever it wants. It was bouncing off the plate the whole time and is very hard to diagnose exactly where if you haven't seen the problem before. You can tell right away from a broken starter cause you can move the gear back and forth where is on a good one it will be held back by the C-clip and cannot engage without power.